NV Albert Bichot Cremant de Bourgogne Brut Reserve (Burgundy): Earth-y, biscuit-y, and pleasingly apple fruit-y. $27 B+ 2017 Chateau Simone Palette Blanc (Provence): Bruised yellow apples, honey, and golden richness to challenge the intellect. $70 A- 2021 Domaine Labet 'Fleur de Savagnin' en Chalasse (Cotes du Jura): A masterclass in racy, linear, focused acidic backbone. $190 A…
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