2019 Tenuta Carretta Bric Quercia Barbera d'Alba Superiore (Piedmont): The B at its biggest, sexiest, and most voluptuous. $21 B+ NV French Blue Brut Rose (Cremant De Bordeaux): Red plum, skin and all, in a fun and refreshing—if uncomplicated—presentation. $25 B 2018 Chateau de Fontenille Rose (Bordeaux): Candied watermelon, flinty notes, and tang for days. $15 B 2019 Maxime Graillot Domaine des Lises Equis Saint-Joseph (Rhone): An immensely versatile red that nails the freshness, black-and-white pepper action. $40 A-

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