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Until I visited Austria, I associated the country with Mozart and marzipan. Now, I will always associate it with mountain cheese. Its western border hugs Switzerland and Italy, making it part of Europe’s stunning Alpine region – in fact, 70% of Austria is mountainous. Picture emerald slopes, water falls, feathery fir trees, and cozy ski resorts that look like gingerbread villages. Then add cows. Spotted cows. They dot the high pastures, grazing freely among hikers.
“It’s always Sunday in Austria,” Samira, my cheese guide tells me. It’s a saying, she says, because Europeans view this picture-perfect country as a mecca of relaxation, a place to spa and ski. But it’s also a country devoted to its grazing lands. In fact, 100% of dairy production is GMO-free (that means no GMO plants in the meadows), and 70% of dairy companies are located in the mountains where animals graze freely.
Care about quality milk? Animal welfare? Family farms? Austria taught me a lot about all three.
Certified Austrian Hay Milk: A special seal lets consumers know when the milk comes from pasture-raised cows in the Alps. No silage is permitted. Cows free-graze in mountain pastures all summer, and in winter, the cows are fed sun-dried mountain hay and a small percentage of grain (no more than 25%).
Small herds, small cows: The average dairy farm has just 20 cows. This prevents over-grazing of pastures, and allows families to care for each animal. At one farm I visited, the farmer told me had no plans to expand his herd because his meadow could only support thirty animals. He also knew every cow by name. Also, Alpine cows need to be compact in order to be good climbers, so breeding giant animals for maximum milk is not a goal. (I saw Brown Swiss, Jersey, Grauvieh, and Fleckvie/Simmenta breeds.) Quality is valued over quantity.
Family farms: 90% of Austrian farms are small family businesses. For the 120,000 dairy farmers who live there, the average farm size is 20 hectares (about 49 acres).
AUSTRIAN CHEESE CATEGORIES
If you’re curious to try Austrian cheese, ask for it. The country recently began exporting to the U.S. (until now, Austria cheese was mostly consumed in Europe) – which is why I was invited to Austria to see cheesemaking first-hand. Check out your local cheese shop or supermarket counter, such as Whole Foods. You can also find some Austrian cheeses online (try Murray’s or igourmet).
Although I can’t recommend specific brands, I can tell you that there are over 400 different Austrian cheeses, including two region-specific PDO cheeses: Voralberger Bergkäse and Tiroler Bergkäse. Here’s what to look for at the cheese case (or if you’re ordering for a shop) – these are two important Austrian cheese designations:
Austrian Alpkäse
High-mountain cheese is referred to as “Alp cheese.” These wheels are made high in the…
